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The fashion critic Cathy Horyn, writing about another of Browne’s early runway shows, called him the “anti Ralph Lauren,” suggesting that whereas Lauren’s vision of American life was expansive—Gatsbyesque gents in a classic roadster, a couple on a gleaming catamaran—Browne “seems to see a culture shrinking to the point of implosion.” Browne told me that he struggled, at first, to find a “balance between the conceptual and the commercial.” Menswear has experienced an “unprecedented boom” in recent years, according to Business of Fashion, an industry Web site

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